SKU: 34789101938
brazilian philodendron name

brazilian philodendron name Philodendron hederaceum var. oxycardium 'Brasil' – Foliage Factory

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brazilian philodendron name Philodendron hederaceum var. oxycardium 'Brasil' – Foliage FactoryPhilodendron hederaceum var. oxycardium 'Brasil' Philodendron hederaceum var. oxycardium 'Brasil' is a green and lime heartleaf Philodendron with irregular yellow green streaking through the leaf centre. The leaves are cordate at the base, pointed at the tip and arranged along long flexible stems that can trail, cascade or climb with support. New growth can show reddish to orange tones on young stems and petioles before maturing greener. The leaf

Philodendron hederaceum var. oxycardium 'Brasil'

Philodendron hederaceum var. oxycardium 'Brasil' is a green-and-lime heartleaf Philodendron with irregular yellow-green streaking through the leaf centre. The leaves are cordate at the base, pointed at the tip and arranged along long flexible stems that can trail, cascade or climb with support.

New growth can show reddish to orange tones on young stems and petioles before maturing greener. The leaf pattern varies naturally: some leaves carry a narrow central flash, while others show broader yellow-green sections across the midrib area.

Philodendron 'Brasil' lime flashes through dark green heart leaves

  • Dark green heart-shaped leaves with irregular yellow-green to lime central variegation.
  • Young stems and petioles can show reddish to orange tones before maturing greener.
  • Elongated leaf tips give the foliage a sharper outline.
  • Irregular central streaking varies naturally from leaf to leaf.
  • Multiple rooted stems in one pot create a fuller cascade of patterned leaves.

Philodendron 'Brasil' as a Holambra selection

Philodendron 'Brasil' was selected in Holambra, Brazil, in 1991 from a naturally occurring mutation of a heartleaf Philodendron. Its green and yellow-green variegated leaves, elongated tips and reddish young stems define the cultivar.

The vine branches from nodes after pruning and can become dense when several cuttings are grown together. A vine that repeatedly produces plain green leaves can be cut back to a stronger patterned node to keep the leaf pattern balanced.

Growing Philodendron 'Brasil' with clear colour and tight internodes

  • Light: Give bright indirect light for shorter internodes; hot direct sun can scorch pale sections of the leaves.
  • Watering: Let the upper 25–35% of the mix dry before watering again, then drain the pot fully so the fleshy roots do not sit wet.
  • Substrate: Use a chunky aroid mix with bark, perlite or pumice and a modest moisture-holding component.
  • Temperature: Keep it warm, preferably 18–27°C, with no cold draughts around hanging baskets or shelves.
  • Humidity: Moderate humidity is enough for routine growth; steadier humidity can help fast-growing vines unfurl with fewer curled tips.
  • Training: A pole or trellis gives older stems contact and can encourage larger, neater leaves on established growth.
  • Pruning: Trim long bare vines above a node to encourage branching and use the cuttings for propagation.
  • Fertilizing: Feed lightly during active growth with a balanced fertiliser diluted below full strength.
  • Repotting: Repot when the roots have filled the container or watering dries the mix unusually quickly.
  • Propagation: Stem cuttings root readily when each cutting includes at least one node and a healthy leaf.
  • Mineral substrates: It can adapt to airy semi-hydro or mineral substrates if the roots are transitioned gradually and kept oxygenated.

Philodendron 'Brasil' green reversions, scorch and pests

  • Plain green sections: Cut back repeated green growth to a patterned node to keep the variegation balanced.
  • Scorched pale areas: Move the plant away from direct sun; pale tissue can mark quickly in hot light.
  • Yellow lower leaves: Check whether the pot has stayed wet too long, especially in cooler months or dense soil.
  • Thin, stretched vines: Increase indirect light or give the stems support so the leaves sit closer together.
  • Sticky residue or distorted tips: Inspect new growth and stem nodes for thrips, spider mites, mealybugs and scale before they spread along the vine.

Philodendron 'Brasil' pet safety

Philodendron 'Brasil' is not pet-safe if eaten. Its tissues contain insoluble calcium oxalate crystals, which can irritate the mouth and digestive tract, so place it out of reach of pets that bite leaves or stems.

Philodendron 'Brasil' published name and Holambra cultivar origin

The botanical background sits under Philodendron hederaceum var. oxycardium, published as Philodendron hederaceum var. oxycardium (Schott) Croat in World Checklist and Bibliography of Araceae in 2002. The variety is based on the earlier name Philodendron oxycardium Schott. Philodendron means tree-loving, hederaceum refers to ivy-like growth, and oxycardium describes the sharply heart-shaped leaf blade. The cultivar Philodendron 'Brasil' was selected in Holambra, Brazil, from a naturally occurring variegated mutation and is grown for its lime-yellow central patterning and reddish young growth.

Philodendron 'Brasil' brings fast heartleaf growth, flexible trailing stems and lime-patterned leaves that vary naturally from node to node.

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New York, US
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The Logitech M510 wireless mouse is a very comfortable and smoothly performing mouse. It is a full size mouse that nicely fills up the palm of the hand. The weight of the mouse is "just right". The mouse body is symmetrical so that will be equally comfortable for left or right handed people. The mouse movement and scroll wheel work perfectly smoothly with no jump or jitter. The mouse optical performance is very robust on poor surfaces. It works equally well on a mousepad, a bare table, on a pants leg, back of a book, even the palm of the hand. It tracks perfectly on almost any surface (which many other mouse brands have trouble with). These mice use the Logitech "Unifying" USB mini receiver which can support up to six Logitech devices by itself. If you have a Logitech mouse, keyboard, trackball, etc... they can all operate from the same receiver (saves using up USB ports). Be aware that the unifying receiver ONLY works with Logitech products and that it is NOT Bluetooth or Wi-Fi. Logitech products can be "paired" with the unifying receiver in Windows and MAC (of course) and also in Linux by using the software package called "solaar" (free, open source). The mouse comes pre-paired to the receiver, so it works "out of the box". If you want to add (up to 5 more devices), you have to pair them yourself. The battery life is awesome. Because I hate leaking batteries, I always use AA lithium cells for everything (including the mouse). My first old Logitech MS-510 mouse that I purchased over three years ago is still working fine on the FIRST batteries that I installed in it (two AA lithium). Since I use it on my desktop the mouse power switch is always left on. It must consume practically no power when not being used. If you use the mouse with a laptop or need to move it from computer to computer, the little unifying receiver can be stored inside the mouse (in a little USB sized slot next to the batteries) to avoid losing it. What follows is some technical information that you can skip if you don't care. Construction: This mouse is very nicely engineered and can be completely disassembled by removing two little screws inside the battery compartment. No screws hide under the teflon slider pads, so those don't get damaged if you take the mouse apart. Every component then can be removed simply by sliding or snapping it out. Why take it apart? See next. My personal feeling is that the left and right mouse buttons are too light (i.e. press too easily). The buttons are no lighter than other mice, I just prefer them a bit tighter. To change this, I replace the two little microswitches with Omron Series D2F-01 parts that have a 150 gf actuation force. It takes about twice the pressure to click these switches as compared to the originals. To replace them is super simple: Just unsolder the originals and solder the new ones in place. If you forget which way they go in, the orientation is printed on the PC board. The side "scroll" buttons already use heavier pressure microswitches, so I don't change these. The "middle button" (pressing the scroll wheel) and the left/right scroll switches (rock the scroll wheel left or right) are a different type of switch that also do not need changing. If you disassemble the mouse, be aware that the little plastic slider for the power switch will be free to fall out when the mouse PC board is removed. If you don't know this, it's possible for the slider to silently fall out, never to be seen again. I won't tell you HOW to unsolder and resolder the button microswitches, because if you don't know how, you shouldn't be doing jt in the first place (or get an electronics-knowledgable friend to help). And, of course opening and modifying the mouse will void the warranty! I will give you one important hint: Because the mouse was assembled using RoHS compliant lead free solder, the microswitch solder joints should first be RE-SOLDERED with leaded solder before sucking or wicking the joints clean. This is done to "alloy" the high temperature lead free solder into more manageable leaded solder to avoid burning/ruining the (single sided) PC board. Good luck! This mouse (hacked or not) gets 5 stars and both thumbs up. It works flawlessly, it's comfortable, battery life is amazing and the price is good (even better when it's sometimes on sale). Grab one!
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