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red spider lily poison

red spider lily poison Red Spider Lily (Lycoris radiata) Southern Heirloom Triploid

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red spider lily poison Red Spider Lily (Lycoris radiata) Southern Heirloom TriploidRed Spider Lily (Lycoris radiata): A Gardener's Guide to the Enchanting Resurrection Flower Red spider lilies are beloved perennials that thrive in zones 7 10, bringing a burst of vibrant beauty to gardens when fall rains arrive. A Lily of Many Names: The Red Spider Lily's Regional Nickname: One of our favorite things about the red spider is its many names as you travel across the country. This also makes for interesting conversations with our

Red Spider Lily (Lycoris radiata): A Gardener's Guide to the Enchanting Resurrection Flower

Red spider lilies are beloved perennials that thrive in zones 7-10, bringing a burst of vibrant beauty to gardens when fall rains arrive.

A Lily of Many Names: The Red Spider Lily's Regional Nickname:

One of our favorite things about the red spider is its many names as you travel across the country. This also makes for interesting conversations with our customers to make sure that we are talking about the same flowering bulb. The names don't change the striking beauty of this fall-blooming flower. Here in East Texas, we call it the "red spider lily". It is red, and the stamens look like spider legs. Along the coast, it is often referred to as a "hurricane lily" because it often blooms after the first fall hurricane. Many people call this a "naked lady" because it blooms on a naked stalk. Others simply call it a "surprise" lily because it shows up out of nowhere and surprises you one day with a flower. No matter what it is called, its beauty will make you glad that you have it in your garden.

The Red Spider Lily's Unique Bloom Cycle: A Timeline

Understanding the Red Spider Lily's bloom cycle is key to successful cultivation. Most people still expect to see something growing during the summer months. You won't see anything. These lilies are dormant in the summer. The flowers suddenly appear with the first later summer or early fall rains. One day there is nothing growing and then suddenly you have a surprise, a fully blooming flower! That is why they are called "Surprise lilies". Yellow spider lilies act very similarly to yellow spider lilies, schoolhouse lilies, and naked ladies. Simply put, they bloom in the fall and then have foliage for the winter. I have spider lilies planted almost 2 years ago that have not yet produced blooms but have produced increasing foliage each year.

1. Planting (Anytime): Avoid hard freezes, but otherwise you can plant the bulbs anytime that you are thinking about them.
2. Dormancy (Summer): Bulbs rest underground, conserving energy.
3. Surprise Blooms (Late Summer/Early Fall): Flowers emerge seemingly overnight.
4. Foliage Growth (Fall/Winter): Leaves appear, gathering nutrients for the following year.

Nurturing the Foliage: The Key to Red Spider Lily Success

The foliage is vital for the bulb's health and reproduction. Don't be discouraged if you don't see blooms the first year – healthy foliage is a positive sign of bulb establishment. The foliage tells you the bulb is growing and multiplying. We know that we all want to see the beautiful unusual blooms in the fall, but the foliage is very important. The foliage is what allows the bulb to grow and multiply. Many people get very concerned if they don't see the spider lily bloom the first year that they plant it and believe that maybe the bulb isn't any good. The foliage is what you watch for if you don't see your spider lily bloom, or even if you do.

Below you will see a picture of the foliage of the red spider lily - it looks like grass. We took the picture on November 1st. The foliage has been popping out of the ground a little over the previous couple of weeks, but now you can really see the stand. All of those different tufts of foliage are bulbs, and someday you will see a beautiful stand of red spider lilies here. In this area because of the super dry summer, not one red spider lily bloomed. However, you can see that the bulbs are growing. The foliage is up and ready to take in nutrients over the next several months while helping the bulbs grow, mature, and multiply. I know you will have to take our word for it, but there wasn't even 1/2 that much foliage there last year which shows you how quickly the bulbs multiply. The foliage will continue to grow. Even if it gets hit by a winter cold snap, it will have taken in nutrients for months! Always allow the foliage to die down naturally and don't cut it off. If you cut it, you are killing the bulb. Once the foliage is completely dead which is usually around the beginning of May, this area can be mowed. Remember, it takes a lot of energy for the bulb to push that bloom up out of the ground and open wide. The more time the bulbs can take in nutrients, the more energy they will have for that fall bloom.

Sunlight Requirements: Ensuring a Spectacular Bloom

The single most important thing about landscaping with spider lilies is the sun. They need at least 6+ hours a day of WINTER sun. That means about 6-8 hours of sunlight during the winter months. If you look at the photo above, you will see that they are in the shade of the trees. You can be sure that most, if not all, of those trees, will lose their leaves in the winter when the greenery needs sunlight. The spider lily puts on its foliage during the winter (November - May) and that is when it takes in the nutrients it needs to produce those golden flowers the following September. The winter foliage soaks up sun energy during winter as it prepares for summer dormancy. The foliage normally completely dies down by around May.

Planting and Care Tips for Red Spider Lilies

Don't plant the bulb too deep. You will plant the bulbs 2-3 times deep the height of the bulb (so if your bulb is 2" tall, then you will plant it 4-5 inches deep). You can plant 2-3 per hole to make the blooms look more natural. Spider lilies really do well in any type of soil. They thrive in soil that has plenty of organic material mixed in, but they do not require fertilizer. Newly planted bulbs would actually be harmed by exposure to fertilizer, so if you are going to apply nutrients, limit the application to established plants when the plants are producing their green leafy foliage during the winter. After planting the bulbs, water the soil thoroughly. Damp soil is ok, as long as the bulbs are in a spot where they will receive plenty of winter sun and the foliage is allowed to die down naturally in the spring. Standing water is not good. Once the summer season starts the spider lily will do best in soil that dries out a bit, as this facilitates its entry into the dormant stage when its leaves die back. This period is followed by its blooming season when it will reward daily watering with long-lasting blooms. Too much moisture in the soil will lead to the bulbs rotting.

Planting Depth: Plant bulbs 2-3 times their height deep.

Soil Type: While adaptable, they thrive in soil rich in organic matter.

Watering: Water thoroughly after planting and during dry periods. The bulbs are dormant during the summer so you don't need to water them.

Fertilizer: Avoid fertilizing newly planted bulbs; established plants benefit from fertilizer during active foliage growth.

The performance of red spider lilies primarily hinges on two factors:

1. Winter Sunlight: To produce lush blooms, the bulbs need to absorb sufficient nutrients from the winter sun. Energy stored over months is used to create these breathtaking blossoms. For this, they require at least six hours of winter sun for several months to ensure they have the energy needed.

2. Fall Rains: The magic trigger for these blooms is the arrival of fall rains. Without adequate rainfall in September, the bulbs won't bloom, as the rains are the signal they've been waiting for.

Dividing and Multiplying Your Red Spider Lily Garden

Early spring is ideal for dividing, but it can be done whenever convenient. Remember, transplanting might cause the lilies to skip a blooming cycle.

Companion Plants for Red Spider Lilies: A Symphony of Color

Enhance your garden's beauty by pairing Red Spider Lilies with other perennials, annuals, or bulbs for continuous blooms:

Perennials: Salvias, Lantanas, Plumbago, Phlox
Annuals: Alyssum, Snapdragons, Pansies, Cyclamen
Bulbs: Narcissus, Iris, Snowflakes, Rain Lilies, Crinums, Hymenocallis

FAQ's

Do animals bother the red spider lilies?

Pollinators adore yellow spider lilies...hummingbirds, bees, and butterfilies.

While deer will eat anything (including plastic flowers if hungry enough), spider lilies are more resistant to their urges than many other ornamental garden products. They definitely leave the foliage alone during the winter, but can be attracted to the bright flowers. So the answer to this question, is that they are mostly resistant, depending on how hungry the deer are. Remember, humans ate tulips during times of hunger/famine, yet tulips definitely aren’t on our menu either.

We understand that online sources sometimes raise concerns about toxicity, so we want to offer some clarification. Much of the alarm you may see online stems from generalized or exaggerated toxicity listings. In reality, cases of actual poisoning are extremely rare, and the plants are not considered a serious risk. While red spider lily bulbs, like many ornamental bulbs, do contain alkaloids that could cause mild irritation if ingested in large quantities, they are not considered dangerous to humans or animals under normal garden conditions. The key is that even for mild irritation they would need to be fully consumed in large quantities. Even if animals chew on the bulbs a little bit, they aren't interested in them (even deer who have been known to eat plastic flowers leave them alone). In fact, they’ve been grown safely in Southern gardens for generations—including in areas with pets and children. You can feel confident they won’t pose a hazard just by being in your garden.

When should I plant red spider lilies? How far in advance should lily bulbs be planted before the first frost in the fall?

For fall planting, aim to have fall lily bulbs in the ground at least four weeks before the first frost. This gives them time to get settled and adjusted before the freeze. You can plant red spider lilies anytime, but avoid a hard freeze.

How do you ship red spider lilies?


During the spring, we ship these vibrant bulbs "in the green," which means they are plump, healthy, and eager to be planted. Expect the foliage to yellow and die back naturally—this is a normal process where the leaves nourish the bulbs for future blooms. Once the foliage is dead, you can cut it off. The rest of the year we ship dormant bulbs. Plant them, water them, and then just wait. Remember - you won't see anything during the summer as the bulbs are dormant. You may not see blooms the first fall depending on when you planted the bulbs. Many perennial bulbs need 6-12 months in the ground before they bloom.

Your Red Spider Lily Journey Starts Today!

Order your Red Spider Lily bulbs now and witness the magic of these captivating flowers in your own garden. With their unique charm and resilience, they are guaranteed to become a treasured part of your landscape.

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Rodney Hahn
Lexington, US
★★★★★ 5
Works like a champ!
Size: Full-size Truck, SUV
It works great! I had one fairly slow leak and 2 very slow leaks. 3 Tires. 2 were on my 94 Ford Ranger. I put a little more than 1/2 the packet in my fastest leaking tire (on the Ranger) and about 1/4 of the packet in the 2nd tire of the same vehicle. Lastly, I put the final 1/4 in a very slow leaking tire on my 2000 Ford F-150. All tires have stopped leaking!! I am delighted with the effectiveness of this product!!
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Reviewed in the United States on May 13, 2026
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Jim
Chelsea, US
★★★★★ 4
Seems to have done a great job.
Size: Full-size Truck, SUV (2-pack)
One of our cars has suffered from rim leaks and was driving me nuts. Constantly being asked by my wife to top off the tires on her car. When I replaced a damaged rim I asked the tire shop to look for the source of the leaks. They said the "alloy" rims had started to corrode and did their best to get them to seal but warned me they would likely leak again. This spring when I removed her snow tires I found 3 of her 4 tires had gone completely flat in storage. The fourth was the new rim which was fine. I considered buying new rims that won't have this problem but wanted to wait until her times need to be replaced. The batteries in the TPMS sensors are getting very low so likely these will need to be replaced as well. I thought to try some sort of sealant. Most of the products I saw were not rated for automotive systems and offered warnings about risk to the TMPS sensors. This seemed to be the only product rated for my application and claimed it would not harm our car's sensors. So I gave it a shot. I ordered the SUV package that came with an injector and two 8-oz bottles. I put 4 oz in each tire per the instructions. Overall the process was easy except the valve core extractor broken on one of the tires. I had to pick up a replacement at a local auto parts store. Also, injecting the sealant creates a small amount of pressure in the tire that, if one doesn't release by drawing out the plunger, will burp a small amount of sealant onto the rims. Fairly easy to clean up with WARM water and easier to avoid after the first experience. Drove the car around at a variety of speeds for 10-15 minutes (had errands to run) and waited to see what happened. Great results. Weeks later and the tires still have the correct pressure. I am not sure how long this will last but hopefully for the remaining life of the tires at least. I took one star off for easy of use / easy to install because the valve core extractor is made of extremely cheap aluminum and I am sure others will have a poor experience with it. Be forewarned and consider buying one before you start jacking up your car and letting the air out of the tires only to find you break the tool on a sticky valve core and are unable to complete the job without a trip to the auto parts store. I'll update this review in about a year to report on the long-term outlook for this product.
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Reviewed in the United States on June 20, 2023
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Team Ohio
Birmingham, US
★★★★★ 5
It Works!
Size: Full-size Truck, SUV
When I bought my vehicle it didn't come with a spare. I knew what I was in for. I was on my way to an important meeting and as fate would have, the tire pressure indicator reported a flat. I imagined the worst but experienced the best! The directions said to let all the air out of tire and remove the valve stem core, it seemed like I was making a bad situation worse. Then it said to attach the tube to the stem and squeeze the contents into the tire. I thought "this is never going to work" the fluid seemed too watery to seal anything, but I followed instructions, I reinstalled the valve core and reinflated the tire, and it worked! I expected it to leak immediately, it didn't. It lasted all day and most of the next day until I could get the tire to the shop. They removed a nail and patched the hole, overall I'm very satisfied, I bought a replacement right away, just in case!
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Reviewed in the United States on May 20, 2026
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Terry Justice
Bozeman, US
★★★★★ 5
Better than the green goo
Size: Full-size Truck, SUV (2-pack)
Recently, while I was at work, I noticed that I had at some point run over a nail with my car. Normally, you'd take your car to the tire shop and let them plug the hole for you. Well, the only problem was that the nail decided that it was going to poke my tire where the sidewall meets the tread, and most shops will refuse to plug a tire when it's punctured there. Makes sense, it's a liability issue for them, so I can't blame them. That still leaves me with the problem of having a tire with a nail in it. So, I could either replace the tire with either a new or used tire, which is expensive or I can try using a sealant to try and get as many miles out of my tire as I can. In the past, I had tried using the green goo sealant on nail holes, and while it works to get you 15 miles down the road, that's about it. Now, while TireJect doesn't recommend using their product on punctures on the shoulder of the tire, I decided that I'd give it a try to see if it would work. And as of writing this review, it's been about 10 days since I put TireJect in my tire, and so far, it hasn't leaked any air, despite it not being meant for the shoulder. When money isn't so tight, I'll probably go ahead and replace the tire, especially since there's only about 4/32 tread depth left, but for the time being, I'll keep running it, and hopefully it keeps holding pressure properly like it has been. Now, as for how easy it is to use, the only tools you will need that aren't provided, is an air compressor to allow you to re-inflate the tire. The kit comes with everything else you will need, including a valve core removal tool and a syringe to add the sealant to your tire. To use this product, you will first need to carefully remove the valve core with the provided tool, careful not to lose the core, since it doesn't come with a replacement core. After that, thread the hose on the syringe on to your valve stem, and then carefully add the required amount of sealant to the syringe. If you accidentally spill some, wipe it off before it dries, so that it doesn't stain anything. From there, just push the goo into the tire with the plunger, adding more to the syringe as necessary. When you're all done, re-install the valve core into the valve stem snuggly, careful not to over-tighten, and air up the tire to the recommended PSI with your compressor. After all that is done, go take a short, slow drive to distribute the sealant, and then recheck your air pressure.
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Reviewed in the United States on July 29, 2025
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Tony Nowikowski
Lake Worth, US
★★★★★ 1
TPMS Compatability is a LIE
Size: Sedan, Crossover, Small Truck
2018 Subaru Impreza, with one tire with a slow leak (about 2 PSI a week) that I couldn't trace. I bought the "Full-Size Sedan, Small Truck, Crossover" kit (the 6 oz. pouch) based on my tire size, 225/40/18. After I removed the valve core, attached the dispensing hose and opened the cap, the product would not flow into the tire. I squeezed the pouch, but that only made the product leak out around the valve stem onto the wheel and driveway. I tried rotating the tire so the valve stem was at the top, and and also at the bottom. I even took the wheel off so I could get a fully vertical flow. Nothing worked. I finally gave up after only about half the product was dispensed, and I do think most of it went somewhere other than in the tire. I reinstalled the valve core, remounted the wheel, plugged in my little lighter socket-powered compresseor, and tried to inflate the tire. And ... NOTHING. The pressure reading on the compressor immediately shot up to over 100 PSI, and it automatically shut off. Tried multiple times, with the same result. I again removed the valve core, and a) no air came out of the tire when I removed it, and b) even with no valve core the compressor still would not pump air into the tire. Clearly the gunk had completely blocked the valve/TPMS. Fortunately, when I took the tire to Costco (where I'd bought it), they were able to fix the damage I'd done, as well as patching a small nail hole in the tread I hadn't seen (that was clearly the source of the slow leak) for no charge. Since I've already submitted a refund request, ultimately all it really cost me was my time and effort ... and a whole lot of stress.
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Reviewed in the United States on November 26, 2024

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