SKU: 72048582291
the bugaboos chris atkinson

the bugaboos chris atkinson Snowpatch Spire

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Description

the bugaboos chris atkinson Snowpatch SpireSecond only to the west faces of the Howser Towers in size but much steeper and a lot easier to access, the east face of Snowpatch Spire has been one of the main playgrounds of the Bugaboos since Fred Beckey (again!) opened the first line on the wall in 1959. In 2015, it became home to one of the hardest free big wall lines in the world, the Tom Egan Memorial Route at 5. 14a. Unfortunately, in December 2022, the fault line of Bugaboo Corner finally

Second only to the west faces of the Howser Towers in size but much steeper and a lot easier to access, the east face of Snowpatch Spire has been one of the main playgrounds of the Bugaboos since Fred Beckey (again!) opened the first line on the wall in 1959. In 2015, it became home to one of the hardest free big wall lines in the world, the Tom Egan Memorial Route at 5.14a.


Unfortunately, in December 2022, the fault line of Bugaboo Corner finally gave way, and a large portion of the lower right face came crashing down the glacier. Many routes, including Tom Egan, are now gone. The upper portion of the ultra-classic Sunshine Crack, on the edge of the face, might still be climbable if an alternative start can be found.

 

Download: Medium resolution, personal use only

Route List

1: Left Hand var., 5.9, A. Hall, C. Hall, C. Boeking, 08/1986
2: Direct var., 5.10-, R. MacAllister, G. Gledhill
3: Snowpatch Route, 5.8, J. Arnold, R. Bedayn, 08/1940
4: Honeymooners var., 5.9, L. Benoliel, A. Hamilton, 08/1989
5: Lost on the Beckey, 5.12, C. McGee, J. Walsh, 08/2017
6: Beckey-Mather, 5.7 A2, F. Beckey, H. Mather, 08/1959
7: Johnston-Kruk, 5.12-, C. Johnston, J. Kruk, 08/2008
8: Vertical Party, 5.9 A2, M. Arbos, J. Clotet, 08/1993
9: East Face Diagonal/Slanting Sinkers, 5.7 A3/5.13+, P. Carman, Y. Chouinard, D. Tompkins, 08/1971 C. Brazeau et al., 08/2021
10: Sendero Norte, 5.12c, J. Walsh, C. Brazeau, 08/2007 W. Stanhope, H. Findlay, J. Kruk, M. Segal, 07/2009
11: In Harm’s Way, 5.8 A3, P. Cole, M. Richey, R. Rouner, 08/1975
12: Deux ex Machina, 5.9 A3, M. Jefferson, J. Shervais, D. Saunders, 08/1974
13: Welcome to the Machine, 5.11+, J. Walsh, M. Kadatz, A. Berg, 08/2015
14: Minotaur, 5.12-, J. Walsh, C. Moorhead, 08/2011
15: Sunshine Wall *, 5.10, A. Higbee, D. Breashers, 07/1975
16: Les Bruixes Es Pentinen, 5.10+ A3, Besora, Bou, Queipo, 1997
17: Parker-Brashaw, 5.9 A1, P. Brasahw, A. Parker, 07/1977
18: Labyrinth, 5.12-, J. Walsh, J. Simms, 08/2009
19: Tekenika *, 5.12+, M. Mayr, H. Mair, O. Renzler, 08/2005
20: Men with Options *, 5.12, C. Johnston, C. Giesler, J. Lavigne, S. Meis, 07/2014
21: Chercher la Femme *, 5.12+ A0, T. Gibson, J. Schaffer, 07/2012
22: Warrior’s Way *, 5.10 A3+, Cliff Jirka, Craig Jirka, A. Dannerbeck, Rick D., 07/1993
23: Hockey Night in Jersey *, 5.9 C3, S. Grossman, K. Johnston, 07/1994
24: Sweet Silvia *, 5.12, W. Hair, K. Harvey, B. Jackson, C. Luebben, 07/1997
25: Tom Egan Memorial Route *, 5.9 A3/5.14, D. Hatten, J. Simpson, 08/1978 W. Stanhope, M. Segal, 08/2015
26: White Ducks in Space *, 5.7 A3, R. Orvig, J. Richardson, 07/1987
27: Power of Lard *, 5.12, G. Dengler, T. Lamprecht, 08/1996
28: Hobo’s Haven *, 5.7 A4/5.13-, J. Beyer, 08/1976/C. Brazeau et al., 08/2021
29: East Columbia Indirect *, 5.12-, C. Brazeau, C. Lank, 08/2012
30: Bugaboo Corner *, 5.10, E. Davies, P. Derouin, I. Rowe, 07/1971
31: Sunshine Crack *, 5.11-, A. Lowe, S. Scott, 07/1980


Sources
  • The Bugaboos, The Climbers Guide,” Chris Atkinson, Marc Piché, High Col Press, 2022

  • Bugaboo Rock, A Climbing Guide,” 2nd ed., Randall Green, Joe Bensen, The Mountaineers Books, 2003

  • The Bugaboos, An Alpine History,” J.F. Garden, Footprint Publishing, 1987

  • The American Alpine Journal, Vol. 60, Issue 92, 2018

  • Mountain Project

  • Friends of the Bugaboos Facebook Page

  • James Madden

  • Jon Walsh

Updates

Jan 30, 2023: First version published.

Feb 8, 2023: Updated name of line 2 from "Right Hand var" to "Direct var".

Mar 7, 2024: Graphic design update.

Feb 18, 2026: Graphic design update, reprocessed base image, changed colors, added details in caption info, removed the ugly red marking of the rockfall (affected routes are still marked with a * in the caption).

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SKU: 72048582291

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KK
Bozeman, US
★★★★★ 1
Poor product
Blade was not sharp enough to remove hair. The raggedy blade scratched and but my face. Very disappointed. My granddaughter had a different brand of this item and it was so smooth removing the hair.
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Reviewed in the United States on January 24, 2026
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Brian Johnson | Philosopher's Notes
Lowell, US
★★★★★ 5
I absolutely loved this book.
Format: Paperback
“This book is about creativity, based on histories of contemporary people who know about it firsthand. It starts with a description of what creativity is, it reviews the way creative people work and live, and it ends with ideas about how to make your life more like that of the creative exemplars I have studied. There are no simple solutions in these pages and a few unfamiliar ideas. The real story of creativity is more difficult and strange than many overly optimistic accounts have claimed. For one thing, as I will try to show, an idea or product that deserves the label ‘creative’ arises from the synergy of many sources and not only from the mind of a single person. It is easier to enhance creativity by changing conditions in the environment than by trying to make people think more creatively. And a genuinely creative accomplishment is almost never the result of a sudden insight, a lightbulb flashing on in the dark, but comes after years of hard work.” ~ Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi from Creativity Creativity with a capital C—the type of Creativity that changes the world. How can we go about cultivating it in our lives? That’s what this book is all about. Our guide is Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi—one of the founders of the positive psychology movement. Csikszentmihalyi (pronounced “cheeks sent me high”) is a professor at Claremont Graduate University and the former Chair of the Department of Psychology at the University of Chicago who wrote the classic book Flow: The Psychology of Optimal Experience . This book features the wisdom gained from over three decades of research along with over one hundred interviews with extraordinary people—from scientists and business leaders to artists and poets. Warning: Although deeply insightful, it’s not an easy read. If you’re looking to understand creativity at a deeper level via one of the world’s leading (and legendary) psychologists then I think you’ll enjoy it as much as I did. Here are some of my favorite Big Ideas: 1. What is Creativity - Domain + field + person. 2. Attention - + Being kind weird 3. Complexity - + Resolving dischotomies. 4. Rhythms - Your ideal days? 5. Creativity + Flow - The 9 elements Well, there we go. That’s a super quick look at this great book. Time to get our flow on as we tap into our Creativity and optimize + actualize! More goodness— including PhilosophersNotes on 300+ books in our ​*OPTIMIZE*​ membership program. Find out more at brianjohnson . me.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 10, 2016
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Julie S.
West Palm Beach, US
★★★★★ 5
5 Stars – A Must-Read for Anyone Interested in Creativity!
Format: Paperback
Creativity: The Psychology of Discovery and Invention* by Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi is a brilliant exploration of the inner workings of creativity and the human mind. Whether you’re an artist, entrepreneur, or simply someone interested in understanding how creative breakthroughs happen, this book provides a fascinating blend of psychology, real-world examples, and deep insights. What sets this book apart is its comprehensive approach to creativity, going beyond the idea of it being a mysterious or innate trait. Csikszentmihalyi breaks down the creative process into digestible parts, showing how environment, discipline, curiosity, and flow all play a crucial role in fostering creative discovery. The interviews with a wide variety of highly creative people—including scientists, artists, and business leaders—add incredible depth and context to his theories. One of my favorite takeaways is how Csikszentmihalyi emphasizes the balance between freedom and structure in creative work, and how finding the "flow" state can lead to moments of true innovation. The book not only helped me better understand my own creative process but also offered practical advice for cultivating creativity in everyday life. This is an insightful, inspiring read for anyone who wants to dive deeper into the psychology behind creative genius. Highly recommend!
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Reviewed in the United States on September 10, 2024
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M. Edwards
San Leandro, US
★★★★★ 4
Personal Creativity does not equal Domain Transformation
This was a good if not a great book. Its greatest strength lies in the thesis introduced early on and supported throughout that the kind of creativity that leaves a trace in the cultural matrix rests not in the personal creativity of the individual, but in what Csikszentmihalyi tags the "systems approach " to creativity. To have any effect, a creative idea must be couched in terms that are understandable to others, pass muster with the experts in the field (i.e. the gatekeepers to the domain), and be included within the cultural domain (the set of symbolic rules or procedures) to which it belongs. In this systems view, the definition of a creative person is someone whose thoughts or actions change a domain or establish a new domain (pp. 27-28). This is no easy task, especially since he or she needs to learn the existing domain or domains first, and almost always necessitates being in the right place at the right time (e.g. studying quantum physics at the beginning of the 20th century or women seeking academic opportunities when WWII broke out). Having established this in the first 30 pages, if you didn't read the remaining 350 you wouldn't miss much. But I still enjoyed reading the stories and thoughts of selected individuals whom the author deemed as "creative" according to the definition above (However, I disagreed with the selection of a few of these and would have chosen at least one more person of faith in addition to the Quaker who was briefly highlighted. Also on the issue of faith, I found the author's grouping on page 371 of studying the bible with addictive behaviors such as cruising the internet and betting on horse races to be rather laughable!). Some additional personal nuggets I gleaned from this book include the following: 1. Those who persevere and succeed must be creative not only in their manipulation of symbols but maybe even more in shaping a career and a future for themselves that will enable them to survive while continuing to explore the strange universe in which they live (p. 199). 2. When seeking to allow your mind to make new connections in a beautiful setting, just sitting and watching is fine, but taking a leisurely walk seems to be even better. The shaping of one's personal space is also important. The Greek philosophers settled on the peripatetic method, preferring to discuss ideas walking up and down in the courtyards of the academy. When we participate in this kind of "semiautomatic activity" that uses a certain amount of attention, we allow the rest of it to be free to make connections among ideas, often from different domains, well below the threshold of conscious intentionality. "Devoting full attention to a problem is not the best recipe for having creative thoughts. "(p. 138) 3. Both creativity and innovation on the one hand and conservation and traditionalism on the other are both equally important. "Neither uncritical acceptance nor wholesale dismissal of human creativity will lead us far. " (p. 322) The final section deals with how to enhance personal creativity. Some of these ideas were helpful (e.g. to seek to be surprised and to seek to surprise another person at least once every day, to seek to look at problems from multiple perspectives instead of assuming you see the issue clearly from one perspective, etc.) but others just seem to be taking up space on the page. I'm afraid the phraseology of how to use psychic energy more effectively on page 356 and a few other places lost my interest almost completely.
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Reviewed in the United States on November 15, 2010
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pepe
San Leandro, US
★★★★★ 5
interesting analysis of what 'being creative' really means
This easy-to-read absorbing book is based on lengthy interviews with 91 creative individuals ranging from Nobel prize winners to artists to CEOs. Csikszentmihalyi starts by debunking the myth of 'the lone genius having a brilliant idea as if by magic' and defines three necessary ingredients for creativity ('with a capital "C"') - domain, field, and individual. Creativity must take place within a recognised domain (such as physics, painting and so forth); be recognised by experts in that domain (the field, although this may not happen in the individual's lifetime, eg, Van Gogh); and of course come from an individual, although he also adds the painstaking work that precedes and insight, the reality that all creativity builds on what has gone before, and the social elements of the creative process. The book also offers supporting evidence from the lives of the 91 interviewed, which also provides interesting insights into their lives. In many ways, this book is a biography of the creative individual. Also contains a chapter with quite practical guidance on how to live more creatively. Prescient advice for a book published in 1996 given the increasing profile creativity is getting in business and public life. HIghly recommended, one of the most interesting learning experiences i have had in a long while!
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Reviewed in the United States on February 5, 2013

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