SKU: 79383845382
orange spider lily flower

orange spider lily flower Orange Spider Lily (Lycoris sanguinea)

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Description

orange spider lily flower Orange Spider Lily (Lycoris sanguinea)The Lycoris sanguinea is often called the "Orange Spider Lily." The blooms are a bright orange that bloom in late summer to fill your garden with color when most blooms in your garden are dying. They really work best in zones 5b 7a because they need a good winter freeze to help them prepare for the next growing season. How they bloom: Lycoris sanguinea "Orange Spider Lily" bulbs bloom differently than most flowers. Now is a perfect time to plant these

The Lycoris sanguinea is often called the "Orange Spider Lily." The blooms are a bright orange that bloom in late summer to fill your garden with color when most blooms in your garden are dying. They really work best in zones 5b-7a because they need a good winter freeze to help them prepare for the next growing season.

How they bloom: Lycoris sanguinea "Orange Spider Lily" bulbs bloom differently than most flowers. Now is a perfect time to plant these bulbs. These bulbs need 1-2 years after they are planted before presenting blooms. Your bulbs are developing a strong root system right now to support future foliage and eventually blooms. You should see the foliage this February - May, but don't be concerned if you don't. Most people still expect to see something growing during the summer months. You won't see anything. These bulbs are dormant in the summer. After 1-2 years, the flowers suddenly appear with the first later summer and early fall rains. One day there is nothing growing and then suddenly you have a surprise, a fully blooming flower! This bulb acts very similarly to red spider lilies, yellow spider lilies, and schoolhouse lilies. Simply put, they bloom in the fall, have foliage for the winter, and are dormant during the summer.

Foliage: Let's talk foliage for a moment. The "Orange Spider Lily's" strap-shaped long foliage will look great by itself in the spring or mixed in with spring blooms. We know that we all want to see the beautiful unusual blooms in the late summer, but the foliage is very important. The foliage is what allows the bulb to grow and multiply. Many people get very concerned if they don't see the bloom the first year that they plant it and believe that maybe the bulb isn't any good. A good rule for perennial bulbs....if the bulb is firm when you plant it, it is healthy and will eventually come up. The foliage is what you watch for since the bulbs aren't going to bloom for 1-2 years. The foliage will grow during the spring months, February - May, so be sure to plant the bulbs where they will receive at least 6+ hours of winter sun. Even if the foliage gets hit by a winter cold snap, it will have taken in nutrients for months! Always allow the foliage to die down naturally and don't cut it off. If you cut it, you are killing the bulb. Once the foliage is completely dead which is usually around the middle of May, this area can be mowed. Remember, it takes a lot of energy for the bulb to push that bloom up out of the ground and open wide. The more time the bulbs can take in nutrients, the more energy they will have for that fall bloom.

Just a thought...if it looks like you are going to have a cold snap and want to protect your foliage, you might consider covering it with a bucket and then removing the bucket once the daytime temperatures warm up.

Blooms: When talking about late-summer color, these orange blooms catch your eye. In late summer, each bulb sends up a 12-16 inch stem that holds several blooms. Each naked stem pops up out of the ground almost overnight. The orange petals are slightly reflexed displaying the yellow stamens within. The blooms will appear late August or early September on a naked stalk like the other Lycoris. It may take 1-2 years before the blooms appear, but the show it produces in late summer is unparrelled. Once established in your garden they are there for a lifetime! These blooms need water to bloom. They respond to the late summer rains well, but if there is a hard drought, be sure to begin watering the area around the beginning of July to help the bulbs have enough energy to bloom. A naked stalk will rise quickly and a few days later the landscape will burst with bright blooms.

Sun Requirements: The single most important thing about landscaping with Lycoris is the sun. They need at least 6+hours of WINTER sun. That means about 6-8 hours of sunlight during the winter months - they do great with full winter sun. Because they are dormant during the summer, the amount of summer sun doesn't usually matter; however, Lycoris sanguinea will keep some of their color better if they get some afternoon shade during their blooming time in August/September.

The Lycoris all have the same requirements of the sun. If you look at the photo above of the Lycoris squamigera "Naked Lady" blooms, you will see that they are in the shade of the trees. You can be sure that most, if not all, of those trees, will lose their leaves in the winter when the greenery needs sunlight. Lycoris put on their foliage during the winter (February - May) and that is when it takes in the nutrients it needs to produce the blooms in September. The winter foliage soaks up sun energy during winter as it prepares for summer dormancy. The foliage normally completely dies down around May.

Plant: Don't plant the bulb too deep. You will plant the bulbs 2-3 times deep the height of the bulb (so if your bulb is 1" tall, then you will plant it 2-3 inches deep). Because they bloom on a naked stalk, they look better when planted in groups. You can plant the bulbs close together (2-4 inches apart) to make the blooms look more natural or spread the bulbs out and allow 6-8 inches in between each bulb. The area will look sparse the first couple of years that the blooms come up, but the bulbs will multiply and fill in several years after that.

Lycoris bulbs really do well in any type of soil except full clay. They thrive in soil that has plenty of organic material mixed in but they do not require fertilizer. Newly planted bulbs would actually be harmed by exposure to fertilizer, so if you are going to apply nutrients, limit the application to established plants when the plants are producing their green leafy foliage during the winter. After planting the bulbs, water the soil thoroughly. Damp soil is ok, as long as the bulbs are in a spot where they will receive plenty of winter sun and the foliage is allowed to die down naturally in the spring. Standing water is not good. Once the summer season starts these bulbs will do best in soil that dries out a bit, as this facilitates its entry into the dormant stage when the leaves die back. This period is followed by its blooming season when it will reward daily watering with long-lasting blooms. Too much moisture in the soil will lead to the bulbs rotting.

Bulbs to use with Lycoris: There are an assortment of perennial flower bulbs that go well with Lycoris blooms. When the bloom appears in late August or early September, it will look great with rain lilies and other spider lilies. The foliage makes a great backdrop for spring bloomers like Narcissus Jonquils, campernelles, twin sisters, and snowflakes.

FUN FACTS:

POLINATORS: Bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds are attracted to the orange spider lily.

"Sanguinea" is a Latin word that means "blood-red" or "bloody" in English. It's often used to describe something that is a deep red color, reminiscent of the color of blood. This term is commonly used in various scientific fields to describe organisms, such as plants or animals, that have a reddish hue.

How to pronounce sanguinea...

  • "san" sounds like "san" in "sand."
  • "gwin" sounds like "gwin" in "gwinnett."
  • "ee" sounds like the letter "e" in "see."
  • "uh" sounds like "uh" in "duh."

So, when you put it all together, it's "san-gwin-ee-uh." The emphasis is on the second syllable, "gwin."

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4.4 ★★★★★
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Melissa Tucker
Carnegie, US
★★★★★ 4
Solid purchase
Color: White, Color: White
I have used it often, basically daily. I love how it has a magnet stirrer and therefore is quiet. I like the stainless steel aspect. It does heat up well. It can store two regular mugs of beverage or maybe 3-4 mugs of froth. It is lightweight but doesn’t feel cheaply made- good enough quality. The froth is great- I have no complaints. I had to learn the hard way that non-homogenized milk gets grainy- weird and icky. I wish it was a little more frothy on the matcha side of things but I still use it. Also, I wish for things like hot chocolate that it got hotter. It goes to 160 on the machine but it doesn’t feel that hot when you drink it. I haven’t measured the temperature of the drink yet but it isn’t hot hot.
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Reviewed in the United States on January 2, 2026
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Verified Purchase
Metsa Lintu
Port Orchard, US
★★★★★ 5
It delivered on more levels than I imagined or expected
Color: White
EDIT: I've used this frother pretty much daily, sometimes more than daily, since ordering it, and it has performed very well. I make turmeric/ginger/pepper milk most nights. The way this frother performs for that use astounded me. I bought it for coffee/cocoa/mushroom drinks, then while waiting for it to arrive realized it might work with the "golden milk." First, the little frother uses a closely/precisely applied heat drawing 550w. The thick steel pot nestles down into the heating base, and the cover fits nice and snugly. So I'm not heating an entire thick saucepan perched atop an entire stove burner (1,000-1,500 w), with all the escaped heat that involves. Second, I'm not standing there with thermometer in hand, diving into the open pan of heating milk to find that perfect sweet spot around 150-155...while constantly stirring and making sure not to let it boil over. Because, third, the little frother takes care of that part, with the thermostat auto shut off. Fourth, it whisks the powders smoothly in. Manufacturer suggests starting the whisk movement in the milk, then adding the powders. They did collect a bit in the low vortex around the stem of the little assembly that holds the various whisk/stir/froth blades, but I just stuck a spoon handle in there carefully, and it redistributed easily around the magnetic-driven stirring assembly. And finally, omigosh, the lovely velvety texture! Since these spices express best with extended warming, I'm making one batch, heated and frothed to 160F, then follow that with just milk frothed to 140. While the second batch is running (there's a cool down pause in the process, hastened by rinsing the pot exterior in cold water and of course drying it before putting it on the base), the first batch is steeping the spices...so the combined result is perfect. EDIT: It did its job much faster than I expected (minutes). So I tested it as promised on my "solar generator" backup unit. My thought was that this would make my usual most efficient option for heating milk in those conditions the second most efficient: open saucepan atop a multi-watt-level portable induction cookplace on the 600w setting. And with much less cleanup at a time when water is scarce (electric well pump). We had a power outage here last week. Yep, the 550w frother ran on a Jackery 2000 for the few minutes it took to heat/froth milk--no trouble whatever and hardly put a dent in the charge. WOW. (Technically speaking it could run continuously, continuously heating, for over 3 1/2 hours on a full 2000 kWh charge.) EDIT: This isn't a reduction in stars, just an observation. The frother "tree" assembly that does the business of stirring/whisking/frothing--I thought to order a spare in the event of damage to the original. They are very hard to find online. Maestri House lists the replacement part as "out of stock." Also out of stock, replacement pot and lid. This might be a concern to some considering the tool. But it seems to be well made and I hope gives long service. EDIT: As of May 2026 the little frother is still working exceptionally well on a nearly daily basis. I purchased it in October of 2025, so that shouldn't be a surprise...but just sayin'. :^>
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Reviewed in the United States on October 27, 2025
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Verified Purchase
Guy Tingos
Charlottesville, US
★★★★★ 5
This is the one to get
Color: Black
I find having separate controls for temperature and foam density is critical and this model nails it. The "newer model" listed in the product description eliminates the separate controls and does not function as well. This frother also has nice features such as the ability to produce cold foam and easy cleaning. It is also extremely quiet. I've tried several mid-range electric frothers and this is the best.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 11, 2026
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Verified Purchase
Mizz Road Runner
Natrona Heights, US
★★★★★ 5
So far. so good.
Color: White
This is my 3rd frother that I purchased from Amazon. The others were brand name frothers that broken within a few months of use. I won't name here (hint: begins with an N and ends with an o) This Milk frother from Maestri however works excellent. Multiple heat and drink settings and makes the perfect foam every time. I especially like how the pitcher is removable from the electric base and can be washed with out worry. easy to use. Just read the manual to understand all the settings, makes a perfect froth in less than 2 minutes. I've only had this for a few weeks but I am impressed.
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Reviewed in the United States on February 11, 2026
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Verified Purchase
lvs
Carnegie, US
★★★★★ 4
Loving it so far!
Color: White, Color: White
02 Nov 2025 I've only used this twice and I already love it. My main reason for buying it is for protein hot chocolate I drink twice a day. I previously made it at the stove and that took 13 minutes of constant mixing to reach 160°. My hot chocolate is 1 cup of milk, 1 tbsp each cacao powder and panela (sugar), 1-2 tbsp collagen powder, vanilla extract, and 1 whole egg. I premix everything before pouring it into the frother because, while it may be able to handle the powders, there's no way that whisk will be able to break the whole egg enough to thoroughly blend it before it starts cooking. I'm totally fine premixing the night before and heating it in the morning. I made the first batch this morning with 2 cups of milk doubling only the cacao and sugar which brought it to just below the top max line, and it came out perfect. It was smooth and there was no burnt taste. I used the recommended hot chocolate attachments, lowest froth setting, and 160° temp setting. I had almost no froth in my hot chocolate which was perfect. I removed the pitcher as soon as it was done to prevent any burning. I checked the temp with a thermometer and the temp was actually 165°. I don't really know if that would impact the taste if there was less milk. For the 2 cups, it was still perfect. I do wish there was a little more temp control like a 150° or 155° setting. I also wish it was able to give you the temp as it was heating in case you want to pull it off just before it hit the set temp. The bottom right button is superfluous. It helps with the foam setting, but you can also simply press each of those buttons directly. Cleaning is super easy, just remove the pitcher and attachments. I love that the attachments are magnetic, but I recommend taking them out before pouring because the magnets aren't that strong. All in all, great for the price and perfect for my needs.
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Reviewed in the United States on November 2, 2025

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