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Description
derigo herbicide Indigo ProForce Destro 20L. Diclofop MethylGroup 1 Herbicide ProForce Destro 375 Herbicide is a grass specific herbicide containing 375g L Diclofop methyl. It is registered for the control of Crowsfoot Grass (Eleusine indica) in a range of warm season turfgrasses including Kikuyu, Hybrid Couch, Common Couch, Buffalo, Carpetgrass and Saltwater Couch. ProForce Detsro 375 Herbicide is also registered for the control of Annual Ryegrass, Wild Oats and Common Barbgrass in a range of agricultural
Group 1 Herbicide
ProForce Destro 375 Herbicide is a grass specific herbicide containing 375g/L Diclofop-methyl. It is registered for the control of Crowsfoot Grass (Eleusine indica) in a range of warm season turfgrasses including Kikuyu, Hybrid Couch, Common Couch, Buffalo, Carpetgrass and Saltwater Couch. ProForce Detsro 375 Herbicide is also registered for the control of Annual Ryegrass, Wild Oats and Common Barbgrass in a range of agricultural crop situations.
Key Features
- Provides a useful mode of action rotation in the fight against Crowsfoot Grass.
- Strengthens the resistance management strategy.
- Excellent turf safety characteristics on a range of warm season grasses including Couch, Kikuyu, Queensland Blue Couch & Buffalo.
- Group 1 Herbicide chemistry.
- Can be used in golf and bowling green situations.
- Safe for use on Queensland Blue Couch and Kikuyu. There are few other post-emergent herbicides available to control Crowsfoot Grass on these turf types.
- Safe for use nearby ornamental garden beds and landscape plants.
- No re-entry periods for use in turf situations.
- Flexible to use near and around the public.
Maximising Performance:
- Rainfall or irrigation within 1 hour of application may cause a reduction in grass control.
- Use of a methylated seed oil adjuvant with ProForce Destro 375 Herbicide will improve efficacy. Recommended rate of use is 250mL/100L of water.
- Apply to Crowsfoot Grass when maximum leaf area is evident.
- The effectiveness of Diclofop-methyl is significantly reduced when grass clippings interfere with thorough spray coverage of the target weed. Particularly around the crown of the plant.
- Avoid mowing treated areas for at least 36 hours to allow time for penetration into the weed.
- Diclofop-methyl is absorbed primarily through the foliage. Thorough coverage is important and essential. Visual injury on Crowsfoot Grass is evident approximately 2 to 3 weeks after application (dependent upon environmental conditions).
- Young Crowsfoot plants are easiest to control. Large mature plants will not be adequately controlled. Best results come from early season applications.
- Ideally, applications below average daily temperatures of 250C provide most efficient results.
- Avoid applications to turfgrass under drought stress or stress from insects, diseases or nematodes.
- Ensure good coverage over the Crowsfoot plant. Use higher water volumes as much as practical (1,000L per hectare). Aim the product at the base (crown) of the Crowsfoot Grass to ensure best performance.
- Don’t apply to cool season turfgrasses such as Ryegrass, as severe injury will result.
- Avoid tank mixing ProForce Destro 375 Herbicide with any other pesticide or liquid fertiliser as reduced Crowsfoot Grass control may occur.
- Do not overseed treated area for at least 2 months from time of application.
- ProForce Destro 375 Herbicide will not control broadleaf weeds or sedges.
- Don’t allow treated turf areas or clippings to be grazed by or fed to livestock.
Weeds Controlled
GRASSY WEEDS
- Annual Ryegrass (Lolium rigidum)
- Common Barbgrass (Hordeum leporinum)
- Wild Oats (Avena fatua)
- Crowsfoot Grass (Eleusine indica)
This herbicide targets key post-emergent grassy weeds in cereal and legume crops and turf. It is not designed to control broadleaf, woody, aquatic, or forestry weeds.
Mode of Action
ProForce Destro 375 Herbicide is a selective systemic herbicide, which is absorbed primarily by the foliage, with some absorption by the roots in moist soil conditions. Once inside the plant Diclofop-methyl undergoes rapid transformation from the ester to the biologically active from, which is then translocated throughout the plant. Diclofop-methyl works by inhibiting fatty acid production via prevention of acetyl CoA carboxylase (ACCase) synthase. As a result of Diclofop-methyl activity, the plant’s cell membrane is destroyed, providing a water soaked appearance on the leaves of susceptible plants. Diclofop-methyl also results in death of the growing tips, hence plant leaves of treated grasses can be easily pulled from their sheaths. Diclofop-methyl also prevents the translocation of assimilates (plant food reserves) to the root system, reduces plant chlorophyll content, and inhibits photosynthesis and meristem activity in weedy grasses.
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Exchange/Return Notes
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4.7 ★★★★★
Based on 14 reviews
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Product Reviews
★★★★★ 5
Forget Adventurer 5M , This is the true and easy to use beginner machine
Set name: Ender 3 V3 SE
This is my 3rd 3d printer. Once I spent about 45 minutes assembling it has been printing nonstop since the amazon driver dropped it off, these are the best for reliability and perfect for hobbyists. It is not the quickest machine out there, but it makes up for it with a quality print good price as well.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 25, 2026
★★★★★ 4
One - Month Review
Set name: Ender 3 V3 SE, Set name: Ender 3 V3 SE
First - I wrote a out of the box review - I do not know if this review will replace the old review or compliment it. Just in case this review replaces the old review - I will repeat a few of the important points from the previous review.
I must also say it helps a great deal if you are already familiar with Ender because about 80% or more of the machine is built the same way as the older models. If this is your first Ender - read the instructions and check to make sure you have all the parts. Placing the parts where you can easily tear open the bags and not having to search for a part cuts down the assembly time. While the assembled printer takes up a small footprint - give yourself room to work.
This is my 3rd printer - my first one I made from scratch. It took about 2 weeks to get it assembled and another two weeks to get it to print properly. Most of that time was spent modifying the Martin software so it would run my machine!
My second one was an Ender V1. It took me about 90 minutes to assemble and about 30 minutes to get it to work. Over the years - I modified it to the point it was virtually impossible to tell the difference between it and a V3. I replaced it because a least one of the motors was going bad and I did not want to do the repairs.
I picked this printer for 3 reasons 1) it was on sale, 2) I am now wheelchair bound and needed a printer that did not require too much assembly, and 3) I had worked with Ender before and knew how they worked. I was able to keep some of the old parts from the old machine (but threw most away).
Everything was packaged well, but the small parts are in plastic bags that you have to tear or cut open - so be careful you do not lose any parts! There are only three parts to be assembled. They are the base, the frame, and the screen. I had no trouble getting the machine together - did have some trouble getting it to work. I was never able to reach customer service which ranged between "Who are you Kidding?" and "Did you really expect any?"
I did some internet searching (there is lots of stuff out there - many are good YouTube videos). I found I needed to do an update - it got a bit complicated here. Part of the update was done using the hidden slot on the LEFT side of the removable screen and part was done using a SD card on the LEFT side of the Unit. (Ender does NOT tell you this on their website!). I was already angry when I tried their slicer and it did NOT work - after not being able to get customer service again. I deleted their slicer and used my Cura. After doing a few prints using Cura (which works fine) a couple days later, I reinstalled their slicer and did some troubleshooting - I found I had a setting wrong. I use both Cura and their slicer now because of the differences. Each one has some features the other one lacks.
One example: The Cura has a large number of preset configurations, and it is easy to save a custom configuration.
The Creality titles the g-code with a filename that includes the estimate print time.
I tried customer service and actually someone! They did give me the manual settings for generic Pla - when I asked how to save those settings they send me to a useless link. I will research how to save one day - but will use my Cura for generic pla until then.
What I like about the machine.
1} While it is nosier (a trade-off for higher speed) - it is still much quieter than the original Ender I had before modifications.
2)The new ribbon and print head are a big improvement. The filament is easier to change, and you can easily make prints with different colors! I do not miss the bowden tube and individual wires at all!
3) I like to put my prints on a card. The old machine used a micro-SD card - and I quicky bought an adapter! The new machine takes regular SD cards and no adapter is needed!
4) I really like the automatic leveling feature. There have been times I have spent hours getting my manual table set the way I wanted. So far - it has worked great. I have only made about 50 prints - so I cannot tell you how reliable it is in long term use.
5) The quality of prints is much better than my old machine. I am not sure whether this due to being a better machine or the stepper motor needing replacement.
What I do not like:
1) The SD card has to be put into its slot upside down.
2) The controls and the SD card slot are all on the left side of the printer. I think putting the computer connection and the SD card would have been much better on the front of the machine.
3) Updating is like putting up a Christmas tree. The firmware is done with a hidden C connector on the left side of the detachable screen (this is like putting up a Christmas tree). Fine details on display etc. are put in using the SD card (this is like putting the lights on the tree). Once you figure out what goes where - it is the easiest printer to update I have had.
4. This one is a mixed bag. I do not give their customer service good marks - but the fact I found solutions on the internet was a good thing.
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Reviewed in the United States on April 5, 2026
★★★★★ 5
The K2 SE is a great entry level printer. Don't let the naysayers get you down!
Set name: K2 SE
I bought the K2 SE because it was inexpensive and I wanted to get into 3D printing. I had a Creality laser engraver that worked well, so I figured I'd go with the brand I knew. I bought the additional enclosure because I was planning to use this in the garage where my wood shop is, and I wanted to keep some dust out.
I have been pushing this thing pretty hard for three months now and it has not so much as looked at me cross eyed. It takes everything I throw at it. The quality seems to be there, as nothing is wearing out. I have a little superlube oil and grease to keep up the maintenance, and I suspect any failures people report have been on unmaintained machines. If you're the type that drives your car without changing the oil, 3D printing is not for you.
A quick note on 3D printing, for the uninitiated. When you see the one and two star reviews for the K2 SE, make sure you read why the reviewer is leaving the low rating. "Doesn't come with filament" - if you're not buying a combo with filament, none of the printers on the market come with filament. "Makes bubbles and pops when printing" - this is wet filament and not the fault of the printer (dry your filament). 3D printing is not a set it and forget it proposition, at least not at first. It requires a little skill (that can be built), a little knowledge (the U of Tube), and a little patience while you learn how to use the machine.
Now for the machine itself...
The print quality surprised me as a first time 3D printer user. I have purchased 3D printed items in the past and the lines were not something that impressed me. The K2 SE prints pretty much the same quality as the higher end Bambu Labs printers. The speed is all I could ask for, and I have fed this thing all kinds of PLA, PETG and TPU from Creality, Sunlu, Polymaker and AnyCubic without a problem. Any issues I have had have been the fault of the operator (me) not knowing I had to dry PETG before I use it. I have a Creality filament dryer now and dry my PETG right out of the package, then store it in an airtight container with dessicant. I have two printers running dried PETG sitting behind me right now and they're doing great.
If I have a single complaint about the K2 SE, it's the bed size. At 215 x 220 it's smaller than the industry "standard" of 256 x 256, and if you get some of the larger prints that are designed for a "standard" sized printer, they won't fit the build plate. But I knew that coming into this, because they advertise the size right up front.
Overall, I'm happy with the K2 SE. It was an excellent entry level printer and I have learned a lot from using it. I may even buy a second to add to my growing farm.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 20, 2026
★★★★★ 5
Creality K1 SE - Prints great with stock settings - needs a side spool mount
Set name: K2 SE, Set name: K2 SE
I bought the Creality K1 SE a little over a week ago. I had an Ender 3 S1 before this printer. The K1 SE is so, so much easier to print with right out of the box! I definitely recommend it. It's a good way to get the improvements that were built into Creality's K1C, but at a nicer price. Plus, you can install your own version of Klipper if you want.
I've printed 10 or so things in PLA and PETG, and I haven't had any failed prints. The automatic bed leveling has just worked. I have not had any problems with bed adhesion. On the Ender 3 S1, I only used a textured PEI plate, but the smooth build plate on the K1 SE works fine. The extruder cooling fan also seems ok for what I've printed so far. I printed an overhang test and the 75 degree overhang looks fine, but it had trouble at 80 degrees. The bridging test looked ok. (The longest bridge was only 25 mm on that test however.)
I've put the printer in a soft-sided enclosure that I had used for my old Ender 3 S1. (It's easy to find similar encolsures.) The LEDs on the K1 SE are bright enough to see inside which is something that I was concerned about before I purchased. However, this enclosure makes it difficult to access the back of the printer where the filament spool is mounted, so I designed a mount that clamps onto the side-bar - see the pictures. The files are on Printables - "Creality K1 SE Side Spool Mount".
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Reviewed in the United States on January 21, 2025
★★★★★ 3
Almost Good
Set name: K2 SE
The nozzle cleaning is completely ineffective. The wiper pushes material up the sides of the nozzle and melts onto the nozzle. The result is the nozzle leaves burnt debris on the prints. The calibration before each print only probes 5 points on the bed and the results are not satisfactory, with the nozzle being variously too close or too far from the bed. To adjust the z offset you have to go through several menus and the machine seems to not remember where you set it last time. Print quality is good except for VFAs. Part cooling fan is very loud at full speed.
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Reviewed in the United States on February 5, 2026